Think Local
By Chris Hoffman
(Sherburne, NY – April 23, 2014) As CNY’s local food movement gains momentum, we are finally beginning to see new restaurants whose chefs offer menus that reflect the philosophy that where food comes from is as important as how it is prepared. Consumer demand for local food grown and raised ethically and organically is steadily increasing, and this is a very good thing.
Kenwood and Vine is such a restaurant. In a word: it is superb. The menu features several “standard” offerings, a large variety of intriguing specials that change every week depending on the chef’s culinary inspirations and what’s in season, and a weekly steak offering, featuring grass-fed beef from different local farms.
Diners are invited to “stay in your food comfort zone or step (or even leap!) outside of your comfort zone. We encourage guests to forego the traditional appetizer-entree-dessert format in favor of a more share-and-share-alike approach; an approach to the evening meal that is embraced in other countries across the world – from the tapas bars of Spain to the izakayas of Japan. Order a selection of dishes for the whole table to share.”
On opening night, that’s exactly what we did: roasted cauliflower with garlic and bacon, served with dressed kale; garlic and lime marinated fish nuggets; artichokes with diced ham and cream; grilled eggplant with saffron-infused honey; Jamaican jerk chicken with a fresh pineapple salsa; sautéed shrimp with sherry and a touch of chili. Each dish was delivered at perfectly timed intervals, and each “small plate” was more than sufficient to share among the four of us at our table. Strong coffee and divinely intense chocolate truffles finished off the meal. This is truly food as art – subtle, complex flavors; interesting texture combinations; perfect execution; and beautiful presentation – art for the soul and palate, a culinary experience that opens up possibilities you never before considered. And, it is very affordable.
One of the more intriguing specials on this week’s menu is beef tongue canapés from Quarry Brook Farms, braised for 4 hours until super tender, then seared and served on toast with pickled mustard seed and greens. The description states, “This will change your mind about tongue.” Tongue is definitely out of my comfort zone, but in the creative and capable hands of this chef, I am willing to make that leap.
Chef Donald Smith’s culinary journey started at the Kanon Valley Country Club in Oneida when he was just 16, and includes working for Just a Taste, Ithaca’s wine and tapas bar, where he learned to be spontaneous and creative in the kitchen, using locally sourced ingredients available on any particular day.
Over the years, he also worked in a Japanese restaurant and a Persian restaurant while living in Japan, and later in Boston he became friends with the owner of an authentic Spanish restaurant who had done her sommelier training in Spain. Numerous trips to Spain followed, and when she decided to expand her restaurant, she asked Don to be her new chef. He accepted. His responsibilities included roasting a whole pig every Tuesday and a whole goat every Thursday, as well as designing the weekly specials.
Earlier this year, Don’s CNY friend Jonathan Pawlika suggested partnering to create their own restaurant, and his dream of having his own restaurant became reality, bringing the journey full circle when Kenwood and Vine opened on April 2 at the Oneida Community Mansion House.
Presently, Don and Jonathan are working with a number of local producers to source ingredients, including Quarry Brook Farms in Sherburne; Red Roof Maple and Produce in Hubbardsville; Drover Hill Farm in Earlville; Greyrock Farm in Cazenovia; Dutch Girl Cheese in Leonardsville; Jewett’s Cheese House in Earlville; and Three Village Cheese in Poland. The list is expanding.
Kenwood and Vine also has a beautiful bar adjoining the restaurant. Their liquor license is expected any day now, and when it does come through, they will feature local and NY State beers and wines, including beers from Good Nature Brewing (Hamilton) and Erie Canal Brewing Company (Canastota), and wines from Owera Vineyards (Cazenovia). The newly designed restaurant and bar are casually comfortable with lots of space and natural lighting – come as you are, enjoy incredible dining, and celebrate all that the CNY food community has to offer.
Kenwood and Vine is located in the Oneida Community Mansion House, 170 Kenwood Avenue, Oneida. Reservations are recommended (315-366-8232), and there is ample parking in back, off Skinner Drive. Hours are Tuesday through Saturday beginning at 4:30 pm.
Chris Hoffman lives in the village of Sherburne in her 150+ year-old house where she caters to the demands of her four cats, attempts to grow heirloom tomatoes and herbs and reads voraciously. She passionately pursues various avenues with like-minded friends to preserve and protect a sustainable rural lifestyle for everyone in Central New York.
If you are looking for good local food, you should also try the Madison Bistro in Wampsville. They have done a great job over the last year of changing their sourcing practices and are now using local meats, veggies and are baking their own breads. The owners, Victor and Lisa couldn’t be nicer. You should definitely give it a try!